I like solving problems for people, that is, when it comes to their jewelry...Ask me to explain cryptocurrencies and blockchain, I'll be pretty much useless. But jewelry, I'm your guy! Turns out, I'm the guy other stores send their clients to when they can't fix a problem either. I am fortunate to be able to help, but I feel it is very unfortunate that the help is needed, especially since it could so easily be avoided if manufacturers cared just a little bit about the quality of their products.
Without going on too long a rant about how no one seems to make things the way they used to, let's just all agree that there is STILL a right and a wrong way to make anything, and your engagement ring is a great example. There are a lot of ways things can go off the rails, but the main purpose of this post is to talk about the part/setting for what is typically the most valuable part of your ring, the center stone.
The center stone is most commonly set into what are called prongs. (Some clients often call them claws, although Ive never big a big fan of that nomenclature...something about associating a symbol of eternal love with claws just doesn't sit well with me, but I digress). Without going into ways stones should be set, I just want to discuss the way the prongs (or, eh, claws...) should be made. There are two main ways:
1) Prongs can be die struck or fabricated, or,
2) Prongs can be cast.
If prongs are die struck or fabricated, well, there is almost never a problem. An issue is so unlikely that its not even worth bringing up here. Moving on...
If prongs are cast however, this is the reason for 60-70% of the problems with client diamond settings. Cast prongs are annealed as a result of going from a molten state to a solid state. If prongs are casted too thin or without enough support, they are more likely to be too malleable for every day wear.
Check out this ring below: Here we have a very lovely and simple setting, composed of a simple band and a 4 prong setting. If the prongs are die struck or fabricated, again, no problem. If they are cast....look out. I can almost promise you this ring will be in for multiple tightening, and certainly it will be at a higher risk for losing the center diamond. This is due to the fact that the prongs are casted and only connected at the base of the setting and again, because they are annealed, they will not have enough support up at the top where the diamond will be set. A few little bumps on the prongs here and there while out dancing on a Friday night, and over time, bye bye! (I don't know what people do on a Friday night, I own a small business and have three children, so dancing is the best I can come up with).
Image 1
Castings get strength through cross sectional thickness and structure. You either need to make the prongs heavier, which usually takes away from the beauty of the piece, or give them some support. This support can be addressed in a variety of ways, but lets look at the option below as a guide. The ring below has two ways to support the casted prongs: 1) The gallery rail that goes around and connects all the prongs closer to wear the diamond will be set and 2) the sides or shoulders of the ring go up to connect to that rail on either side ( you cant see that connection in this open view picture, but Im sure you can imagine it). Both of the design details of 1 and 2 go a long way to limit the ability of the casted prongs to move out of position, thus resulting in a loose or lost diamond. You definitely do no have to do both, but 1 or 2 or a alteration of 1 and 2 should be done if the prongs are cast.
Image 2
Moving further along you may wonder, Why would anyone cast the prongs too thin or without any support? Its cheaper, faster, and easier make it that way. The thiner the metal, the lighter it is and therefore the cheaper too. It is faster and easier because you cast the ring that way without having to consider soldering die struck prongs. This cuts way down of time at the workbench and eliminated the need for more experience hands too. Aesthetically some clients might like the style of a particular design element, like the open V shape in Image 1, so online retailers want to give clients that option without the extra step of using a die struck head, so they cast it that way, and on it goes to the unaware consumer. They wear it for a few months and a couple Friday nights out dancing, and the diamond is loose and they are at my door, in need of a goldsmith. Maybe they have already sent it out in the mail a few times, back to the retailers service center because the ring came with a 'warranty', but after the 2nd or 3rd time, they come to address the real problem, the way it was originally made!
This may seem like a rare situation, but trust me, I have very little free time at work and Im only taking the time to create this blog post because this happens ALL the time. Quality has gotten so bad, I am now remaking rings people bought elsewhere before they even get engaged. So in the 1-2 years of their engagement, they have had so many problems before coming to me, the rings are so poorly made, that they just have to start from scratch with their stones and make a new ring the right way. If that sounds sad to you, trust me, I hate it. Again, going back to the beginning, I like being able to solve problems. I do take pride in knowing in being able to help, but people should not have to deal with this in the first place.
I hope this was clear and easy to read. At the end of the day its just jewelry, no one is saving any lives here, but an engagement ring is an important purchase, and like my Dad always said, the first step should be educating the customer.
If you don't purchase a ring from me I would urge you to consider buying from another independent. You are much more likely to get something that is better than chain stores and online retailers. I have a list of stay away stores/designers that been the most troublesome for clients, please message me privately if you want a list to at least steer clear of them.
I have a very small store, and physically can only do so much work, but if this post can help just a few couples make a more educated decision in the future, whether that means buying a ring from me or not, either way, I will consider it time well spent today.